Solid board table and bench
Search for a material
I do not consider this stage the main, but it can last quite a long time. A significant portion of the time, energy and gasoline were spent on visiting various sawmills and wood storages in search of suitable material. It was like a feat, given the established requirements for width. I needed to find two boards with untreated edges, and, putting them side by side, the total width should make up the necessary 100 cm.Their form was to form voids to accommodate the collection of agate customers. Boards must have characteristic pronounced patterns. There were also standard requirements: the boards were dried in a furnace or for a couple of years in the air, they have a pleasant appearance, a plane without unnecessary twisting, warping, cuts (everything that would require removing the layer in thickness). And, of course, the cost should be reasonable. Search usually begins with electronic ad sites in the "building materials" section. Often local craftsmen put up for sale extra boards at reasonable prices. Ads can also be placed in stores, thus trying to attract more customers. I found some decent options nearby, but there was nothing that would satisfy all the requirements. After that, I looked to some local loggers who sawed logs into planks. These guys often have their own sawmills, and they sell the board at a good price, because they get the logs cheaply or for free, and the quality is not always the highest. But this option also did not work, so I had to move on to stores and warehouses. Obviously, there was already a choice here, but at a very high price. Finally, I found what I needed at a local store. Not exactly in the store.It turned out that its owner has his own sawmill and a warehouse, which is full of planks with uncut edges. He had several walnut piles of which one could make a choice. Here I found what I was looking for. The boards had an ideal width, sawn from one log (symmetry was preserved), dried in the right conditions for 3 years, beautiful and flat, and the price was relatively inexpensive. Attached with a bonus. Since they were treated with a wide plane, I did not have to remove the unevenly cut surface by grinding. I do not have a plane with a width of 60 cm ... During the search I sent photos to the customer to get her approval. We both chose the two. Finally, it was possible to proceed to the next stage of the project!
Design development and approval
Before taking up the tool, almost every project of mine begins with the development of design in a computer-aided design (CAD) system. With raw edges, this is a little more difficult, as it is difficult to achieve their repetition in CAD. I solved the problem by placing a high ladder and taking a photo of the boards along the entire length. Then he imported the pictures into the program and traced the contours. The photograph was visible measuring tape to more accurately scale the graphics. After designing the electronic models, I put a real picture of the surface of the boards on them to make it easier for the customer to imagine what I was going to do. After we decided on the design, I designed different elements, how they would interact and fasten to each other. For this project, I drew different projections of the model for various purposes with a vector. I painted the outlines of the central cavities and exported them to a DXF file, which I then sent to the glass company so that they cut out the same shapes for me.The same file I used to make a template with a contour of the cavity, along which it will be possible to cut out polycarbonate plates, which will be fastened from the underside of the countertop. Templates and polycarbonate I cut out on my homemade CNC milling machine. I also cut out a template for fixing parts of metal legs in order to weld them correctly. I even cut out the profiles of various metal parts with a laser, which I will be helped to cut the details of the legs at the right angle. Designing a full model in CAD can start work, or at least work with it will be much easier.
Preparation of boards (puttying of cracks, fixing knots, grinding)
In most cases I like when all the knots, cracks, voids are fixed and filled with black epoxy, especially when working with a nut. Black color most often looks natural, and sometimes gives contrast.Since the boards here and there were quite deep cracks, I used a resin with a long hardening time; This will allow it to be absorbed well and will help to really fix the cracks, and not create the illusion of filling. The disadvantage of this method is that it is almost always necessary to reapply the resin a second, and sometimes a third time. Sometimes for re-treatment I use a resin with a fast curing time. I filled all the voids on both sides of the boards so that they can be securely fixed. It is better to apply epoxy resin with a “hill” so that during grinding no bubbles appear (so they rise above the plane of the board). After filling all the voids, I treated the protruding parts of the epoxy resin with abrasive with P60 grain.
Shaping of the form in the joints
Unfortunately, I didn’t particularly document this stage. Essentially, I put one plank on another in the required position, and marked the area to be deleted. Directly for work, I used a jigsaw, an angle grinder (with a disk cutter and a blade disc), and, where necessary, hand tools for carving wood. At this stage there was a lot of fine work and fit. I left a seam about 4 millimeters thick along the entire length between the boards.I thought that the table would look more expressive. On the other hand, a seamless fit leaves corners that does not look good. The thickness of the seam will be maintained due to the dovetail key. Then I leveled the edges of the table with a circular saw. During this stage, I scraped the raw edges of the bark residue on the table and on the bench. Then I walked along them with an angle-grinder with a blade disc so that the uncut edges became smoother. In the bench, I cut one raw side with a circular saw. I agreed with the customer that one side of the bench would be straight.
Connect planks with dowels and keys
I used shkanty to connect the central parts. They are used to fix two boards in the same plane (relative to each other). The tabs and legs of the table will lay the main burden for fixing the tabletop. Unlike the keys I had met, I made these almost thickness equal to the thickness of the boards. The material for the keys was made from gluing a sheet of walnut between two sheets of mahogany, and the CNC machine cut out the shape. I also made a template that will help cut the grooves for the key with a hand mill. After aligning the seam between the boards, I fixed them to the table with the help of clamps. Then, using the template, I cut out the grooves with a router. Where the frezer left the groove rounded I had to work with a chisel. It was possible to do a “dovetail” with rounding, but I like the look of smooth corners. When the grooves for the key were ready, I carefully inserted the “dovetail” (to make sure it did not get stuck!) And proceeded to gluing.The keys were made a little thicker than the grooves, so they were ground flush with the table top. After this stage was completed, I sanded all surfaces from P60 to P180. Final grinding with P220 grain was carried out immediately before polishing.
Inserting glass, polycarbonate and LED lighting
I used CAD model to create inserts of glass and polycarbonate plate. Double-sided tape perfectly suited for temporary fixation of blanks on the surface of the table.Then I again used the hand mill to create grooves on both sides of the boards. For more accurate work, I used zenzubel and a chisel, until the glass lay flat and fixed without hesitation. The glass was taken out and inserted many times, for this I used suckers. Inserts from polycarbonate sheets were prepared using a CNC machine and a face mill. Here I had to decide how to securely fix the plastic inserts on the bottom of the countertop. I wanted them to be easily removed, for example, for replacement because of scratches. I decided that the fixing flags made of walnut would be just right. Therefore, I cut them with a laser cutter from the material I have. Before inserting plastic, I had to deal with the LED backlight. For a more exquisite effect, I decided to place LED lighting around the perimeter of the plastic. This technique will also help to hide the wires. I purchased a thin LED strip with an adhesive side that can be easily glued to the recess I made earlier around the bottom of the cavity. I had to assemble two separate electrical circuits in the form of Y, which should then go into a separate dimmer.The dimmer connects to the battery on one side and the 12-volt power supply on the other. It allows lamps to shine both from batteries, and from a network. The idea is that the owners connect the charger when they do not use the table, and it would be possible to remove the wires when they disturb them. The wires and the battery were secured to the bottom of the tabletop with clamps and anchors. I considered the option of embedding the battery and wires in a tree, but finally decided that it was not worth it, since all these components would have to be replaced sometime. In the end, this table should be a family value that will outlast me, the client and the LED lamps. They say that LED-lamps can serve for quite a long time, but if there is a desire, they can be replaced with something like that. After fitting the plastic and checking the lighting work, I put the plates aside. The locking flags and plastic can be attached after polishing.
>img src="https://sdelaysam-svoimirukami.ru/uploads/posts/2017-12/1514008006_83.jpg" style="max-width: 100%; "alt =" Table and bench from a solid board ">
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