New Russian gop-style is coming
Thanks to Gosha Rubchinsky and Demne Gvasalia, the indigenous inhabitants of the sleeping districts of Moscow, which we commonly call the impartial word "gopnik", immediately became heroes of fashion magazines all over the world. And their wardrobe, mainly consisting of baggy, semi-sports pants, sweatshirts and XL-sized T-shirts and worn sneakers, suddenly turned into a kind of fetish. We thought that this was just a temporary clouding of fashion as a response gesture to an excess of luxury and glamor on the catwalks against the backdrop of a humanitarian crisis that not only the so-called third world countries, but also Europe, are experiencing. But it turned out that everything is more than serious: the aesthetics of the Soviet past and the street style of disadvantaged areas as a cultural phenomenon are already declaring themselves to be a global trend in fashion, the central geographical point of which is Russia.
What do Rubchinsky and Gvasalia have in common besides the similarity of the stylistic code? Rubchinsky today is the most famous Russian designer abroad, who, instead of his native Moscow, has been showing his collections since 2009 at the Men's Fashion Week in Paris.Gvasalia is now perhaps the most discussed designer in the world for having so quickly and uncompromisingly destroyed fashionable canons and allowed himself to create clothes that many are still embarrassed to call designer. Both in our country are criticized mercilessly - for speculation on banalities, for a markedly untidy style of shows, for clothes, which, at last, seem sickeningly unattractive and overly expensive. That, however, does not prevent both of them from being laureates of the Fashion Awards, which are selected by eminent fashion experts, along with the adidas and Palace brands. But in November, it turned out that the guys still have something in common: both of them will soon be famous for promoting the new Russian style in fashion: Gvasalia - through communist symbolism, and Rubchinsky is still unknown how, but according to rumors, in cooperation with Kanye West himself. The Vetements brand has a limited edition of sweatshirts with a stripe of the familiar emblem with a hammer and sickle at a price of almost $ 700 already familiar to their collections. And Gosha Rubchinsky accepts Kanye West himself as a guest in Moscow, who, apparently due to the young Russian talent, is going to rehabilitate himself after the failed last collection of his own brand Yeezy.
Photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official)Nov 27 2016 at 4:57 PST
Photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official)Nov 10 2016 at 5:00 PST
It seems that very soon we will remember with a slight nostalgia the times when the word "Russian style" meant flowers embroidered with dresses and scarves, sable fur coats in the floor, kokoshniks with pearls and a coat of wool in the manner of an army overcoat. All this is undoubtedly Russian style, but emasculated, pompous, and somewhere even marked “for the rich”. His fundamental weakness is the complete lack of realism.
Well, we do not have girls in kokoshniks and painted dresses on the streets, just like there are no bears with balalaika, although many would like to believe in this folk tale. Sable fur coats, however, are found, but this is the very Russia that drives in cars with a driver and with tinted windows and goes down into the subway only if there suddenly was appointed some kind of fashion show.
This stately-solemn Russian style with furs, rosettes and golden buttons is incredibly beautiful in art and, perhaps, not bad in the interior, but in practice it no longer exists. Everybody has long been buying Chinese scarves instead of Vologda's painted ones and ordering a down jacket for themselves in the online store instead of “native” furs to the floor with the expectation that the last three winters in a row snow almost alternated with the rain every week.
Rubchinsky and Gvasaliya turned away from this national mythology and looked into the closets of those who live in panel five-storey buildings and did not hear the word “crop-top”, but last summer they had nothing to do but cut their favorite T-shirt
It turned out that the Moscow outskirts do not differ from London's monstrous pofigizmom in clothes. The climate here and there is extremely unpredictable, so the sneakers come with thick socks, the coat is on top of the sweatshirts, the hats are warm, but worn loosely, and the jeans are such that they never press anywhere and do not interfere with life.
Photo posted by GOSHA RUBCHINSKY (@gosharubchinskiy)Nov 24 2016 at 2:56 am PST
Video posted by SVMOSCOW (@svmoscow)Nov 22 2016 at 4:46 pst
Fashion magazines have always adored censuring the working class for lack of taste, doing it vividly, with an insolent syllable and even boorish comparisons. They say that while those who read the gloss learn to properly emphasize the dignity of their figure, somewhere far from the center of the city there is a faceless mass of unhappy people who do not set such goals for themselves and dress as they please. In magazines they write that a two-piece suit is such a convenient solution, because I put it on and only think about shoes and accessories.And on the outskirts of their suits, twos - sports with stripes - do not get out, in principle, for the same reason, but without regard for all sorts of advice there. It is this sincerity of the Russian style, and not a formal polish based on folk crafts, that Rubchinsky and Gvasalia propagandize - not in its pure form, of course, but with the presence of familiar symbolism and simple styles, understandable, in fact, to residents of any outskirts of any city. Therefore, we won’t be surprised if in the future there will be no red carpet of all sorts of awards there, and the podiums of closed social events will become Russian in a flash: Jared Leto will wear the same tracksuit with stripes instead of Gucci, Cyrillic t-shirt over leather pants, and Kanye himself - boyar sheepskin coat and jeans with a metal star on the buckle.
So, you see, and Moscow will cease to be the center of gravity of everything that is included in the concept of “Russian fashion industry” and people will remember that there are still cities where fewer people live, but certainly a considerable number of them have been practicing the same style since their youth who now want to sell expensively to the West Rubchinsky and Gvasalia.By the way, Rubchinsky himself has already planned the next show not in Paris and not in Moscow, but in Kaliningrad. And let it be so, because variety in fashion is never superfluous.
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